Heritage and revival is a problem. Chanel, Balenciaga, Givenchy history of these well-known in the fashion of the old fashion house, now glow with new life, but now they have the one thing they still Mody: Chanel or neutral and minimalist pioneer it? Balenciaga or elegant facial lines it? Givenchy was Hepburn love exquisite suit it?
A few days ago , the Paris fashion house Paco Rabanne this old replaced by another designer , which is nearly two years at the helm of the brand for the third time . This is not a case that the most famous Paris fashion brands are iterative , Dior, Kenzo, YSL, Balenciaga ...... replace younger and more fashionable designer to revitalize the brand, to become more popular , a higher degree of public awareness . " trend " brand. It's like a game of customs clearance , have to find the right people and the right approach.
Became Lady Gaga's costumes , to or not ?
"Boom " is a reputation , or a public nature . "Strange can attract attention, raise awareness , but most people who pay for the fashion is to wear strange it ? " It is those who have to pioneer and well-known brand in the revival of alternative when faced with a big problem. Paco Rabanne for making such a choice. Paco Rabanne is a been forgotten after suddenly catching up in Paris old brand . Its founder , Mr. Paco Rabanne was designed in the 1960s, sheet metal , plastic sheets made of fashion , so fashionable at the time off running into the " Space Age ." However, the next few decades , which are in the money by selling perfume . 2011 , Indian Manish Arora took over the brand after a similar year, Mr. Paco Rabanne creativity to produce a so Lady Gaga, Katy Perry love the costumes . Paco Rabanne back to people's vision, it magazine covers , becoming the star of contention wear hot item . However , Paco Rabanne Company within one year after the quit Manish Arora: " We are very grateful to Mr. Manish Arora designs and brands which made tremendous efforts over the past two quarters of the powerful influence of the media but also to significantly enhance brand awareness . " they do not buy it. Manish Arora 's successor, only 29 -year-old Lydia Maurer tells the whole story : "We do not want to say no to such a star Lady Gaga , after all those clothes Paco Rabanne also part of the image , but that is not the only meaning of existence Paco Rabanne we hope that women wear Paco Rabanne like to go out , she does not have to go to work wearing Paco Rabanne , but she should not like to wear like a sculpture of the same . "Manish Arora 's design is not practical to wear , too strange , can not take to the streets . Unfortunately, the beauty successor only did one year: compared to the previous year, Paco Rabanne booming popularity , her design is too "quiet " the. Too , and back to man it ! They hired a former Balenciaga designer to produce a variety of " street beat artifact " of Nicolas Ghesquière along the way Julien Dossena. "Boom" is not just exposure and visibility , but also sales , the company wants is everyone want to buy, everyone can put on the body of the " eye-catching artifact ."
And Paco Rabanne have similar situation is the same in the 1960s that "space age" lord of the Emanuel Ungaro. Emanuel Ungaro in the 1960s known as the " fashion terrorist" , we can imagine how his design a bit . However, the 2004 -year-old designer after retirement , the brand becomes a mess , with the management of the designated heir Giambattista Valli furiously from the stove , even for the next seven designers, which also includes the notorious Hollywood star Lindsay Lohan they want to please the young , but can not find the right direction. Last year, they hired the Fausto Puglisi. Fausto Puglisi won both pompous faction Street beat Reds Anna Dello Russo 's favor , but also make sweet fashion blogger Chiara Ferragni Department will it put on the body . He will show " publicity " and " avant-garde ", Fausto Puglisi Emanuel Ungaro year's demeanor can develop into the present era of the " surge ." Recently , to become a " Chinese version of Gaga", loving fashionable Shang Wenjie on "Happy Boys" Guangzhou stadium when the judges , to wear the Emanuel Ungaro 2013 Dongkuan single sleeve wave point A dress shirt with a yellow . Do you think it is "boom" to the benefit of , or too " trendy " mean ?
Who in the world was young heart
Luxury is no longer the exclusive old lady , they quietly expanding audience , looking younger wider range of customers , to discuss young people like , fun, like FMCG , like change of trend that is let everyone pocket approach.
For this reason also , Christian Dior has been abandoned gas at times John Galliano, select the influx of young people being sought after by Raf Simons. John Galliano those gorgeous dramatic presence in the last century , the 21st century is the need to Raf Simons emphasized the "fourth sex" - not a man , not a woman , is not neutral , but the teenagers. They like novelty , creativity, personality, rather than "elegant " and " luxury ."
Kenzo benefit from this shift in the biggest brands . In the 1970s, in France Kenzo Takada established his brand Kenzo, over 40 years of brand history , Kenzo feelings in Japan and Japanese stamp trafficking . In the 1980s, these are the " boom" is described by Yi Shu character showing off grade mark , but in the 21st century, they have become " antiquated " synonymous : Its customer base leaving a middle-aged women. "Elegant" too slow, "boom" is needed is "the latest " and " fastest ." Kenzo , chairman of parent company LVMH Fashion Group, Pierre-Yves Roussel , said: "Our current need is more living things , able to attract a new generation of fans ." Then , in 2011 , Roussel provoke a wave of store Opening Ceremony in New York two Chinese main reason people Humberto Leon and Carol Lim. They bring a sweater for Kenzo , hiking jackets , baseball caps, these once and " elegant" Kenzo completely in tune with things , it also brings a tiger , his eyes red to purple label these elements. Facts have proved that these changes of shift saved Kenzo, it a makeover to become the best selling products : Last year every love fashionable young people are eager to have a Kenzo tiger shirt, this year it is printed full eye Kenzo boots.
Very hand in this regard , as well as Givenchy's Riccardo Tisci. As we all know , Hubert de Givenchy was once a good friend of Hepburn idol 1960 , he those elegant dresses and suits to become the eternal memory of the screen . Today, we talk about Givenchy, was by no means "elegant ", that is Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci: street , dark , gothic fantasy ...... is high-tech mirror printing, a head portrait , baseball jackets, pentagram , high-top sports shoes , and even its advanced customization is also a model wearing a nose ring display stand on the basketball court . Every one wants to have an influx of people Givenchy, young love it , we began with a baseball jacket with dresses , pullovers with high heels , the dress code locked drawer.
Even pedantic Chanel began an olive branch to the younger people . Although it is still selling 2.55 and tweed jackets, but the designer Karl Lagerfeld told the young man : they are "wild saint ", you can mix and match with a tweed jacket jeans , you get 2.55 with any outfit , they are not a little old-fashioned . Old Karl trying to put this into a classic old wealth youthful Tide brand : He attracted the world's most famous people tide , let them wear that same years black coat mix and match ; him constantly updated Chanel's endorsement list , Lily Allan, Blake Lively, Alice Dellal ...... each one is then teen idol ; he carefully chose to wear Chanel's representative image , there must be some styles will mix and match , tasteful girl. Chanel is not Alexander Wang, but let love Alexander Wang Karl Young people also want a Chanel.
Recruit designers, that have to choose "wave"
Old fashion houses like to complete recovery plan , not only lies in the vanguard of consciousness , but also because the designer would choose . If you want to revive an old legend , but chose an even their own brands are no longer operating the master, it may be poised to revive the long- wave will be shot dead on the beach ......
Volkswagen like those to be " placed on the altar ," the designer. There idol temperament tide is very easy to convince consumers that his design is special. This is perhaps why the Balenciaga Why 28 -year-old Chinese youth Alexander Wang to take over ; Hedi Slimane at the helm of YSL make sales gains across the board after ?
Balenciaga CEO Isabelle Guichot Alexander Wang in the choice before they claimed to find some people who have a global thinking : "A global citizen , one who knows the digital world , one knows the future direction of the retail and fashion people ." This " three one " can be understood as a basic , Balenciaga need a star designer , they have star quality , if not the brand consumers will understand at least the audience has such a designer , and Alexander Wang's "young" , " ethnic " Nicolas Ghesquière is clearly better than the other more in line with the "Three Ones " interpretation. Alexander Wang is now the young people meet interesting designer image : Asian faces, will play party, will wear the clothes , there are urban temperament, understand street culture , youth interested to know everything ...... In addition, more importantly, , the young Alexander Wang is clearly easier than those middle-aged people embrace the digital world and social media .
And Hedi Slimane, so much that he is a legendary designer , but rather that he is a star-like designer. It was gloomy as his pale Dior Homme dumping, even Chanel's Karl Father also reduced the fat to squeeze his own clothes . He became a recluse reclusive part of the legend , he casually by two black and white photographs by the media madness will spread , cited as big news. His comeback as a fashion event , to have a Hedi Slimane designed YSL ( now should be called Saint Laurent Paris, even the brand name also changed ) , not just to buy clothes so simple, it has become a pioneer label : " I wear Hedi Slimane me proud ! "
To launch a " indiscriminate street " handbag is very important
"Boom" by "trend " is also the so-called "trend" not that make people rush "new thing" Why ?
Said Celine was " Tide brand ," Phoebe Philo may identify those feelings and feminist minimalist temperament consumers will be very offensive. However , Celine designer Phoebe Philo is indeed the "bag " as a stepping stone to her market , so Celine's name into a "trend ." She did not put " minimalism " as a kind of feeling spread to the public, but with the simple and crude "hot bags " to open a window fashion lovers . Since then, carrying a leather bag to go to become a kind of fashion ; minimalism and retro bags on the market to become mainstream ; " Jiong face pack" abuse of the street ; box handbag see everywhere . Those who do not understand a point on clothing " minimalist " luxury consumers need to have access to a Celine handbag "taste ." Celine handbag is not how the nerve to claim to be a "wave " mean ?
How profitable this year Valentino old-fashioned it ? Thanks to the two young designers came up with rivets as its logo elements. Think about what the influx of people for Valentino those soft lace bow buy it ? The theme is rebellious youth , to show off , it should match the rock, rivets, even sweet sweet is dark , even sexy sexy is barbed . In a simple clutch ring inlaid rivet , in an elegant box inlaid lap handbag rivets, in a sweet circle inlaid rivet flat shoes , evening bags nailed in several large rivets ...... get these rivets products a hot , became the highest degree of brand recognition , " details ." They're wild, but also to make people aware of your grip is a one Valentino. This is Valentino " boom" up secrets.